French gastronomist Brillat Savarian (1755-1826) is quoted as having once said, “A meal without cheese is like a pretty woman without an eye.” Those who subscribe to this belief can get an eyeful—and a mouthful—of the most glorious, pure cheeses at the new Fratelli la Bufala (FLB) restaurant in South Beach.
Miami, FL – Sure, we’ve all had “buffalo mozzarella” at our neighborhood Italian restaurant. But there’s nothing quite like the tangy, slightly sweet taste of mozzarella di bufala; the creamy feel of bufala ricotta; and the firm bite of bufala cacio (a type of Pecorino cheese), all made of 100 percent water buffalo milk. What’s the difference? Bufala cheese is made of 100 percent buffalo milk. Nothing more. No artificial colors, chemical preservatives or shelf-life enhancers. And the flavor is incomparable.
It wasn’t until the seventh century that buffalo was introduced into Italy and it appears the animal’s milk wasn’t used to make cheese products until the beginning of the twelfth century. By the second half of the eighteenth century, the use of mozzarella di bufala especially became widespread. Today, you can find buffalo cheeses in most supermarkets, but the best varieties—the ones made exclusively in Italy—are more difficult to come by.
That’s why Fratelli la Bufala (FLB) insists on using only imported Italian bufala cheeses at all of its restaurants, from London to Naples and from Rome to Milan. The new Miami Beach location, opening early November 2005, is no exception.
Here’s what FLB offers epicures:
Mozzarella di bufala has been called the “aristocratic European cousin of America's beloved, yet tougher "string cheese." When cut, this moist, snowy white cheese releases a sweet aroma and little enzyme drops appear on its surface. Expect to see this popular cheese topping everything from FLB’s famous wood-fired pizzas to hamburgers, and from entrees and salads to pizza sandwiches. The smoked version is also a treat; taste it in the lasagna.
Ever had a slab of ricotta cheesecake? It’s just as sweet as the traditional cream-cheese version, but it has a lot more personality. Even if you have had the opportunity to take a bite of this unusual confection, chances are you’ve never tried one made entirely of bufala ricotta. You’ll taste the difference from the first bite, especially since FLB’s is touched with a lemony tang and sweetened by a wild cherry coulis.
And none will soon forget the sharp flavor of the bufala cacio. Not only is it known for its exceptional nutritional qualities and easy digestibility, but this hard cheese is also often used as a substitute for parmesan or romano. FLB employs it in its il pignotiello, an antipasti featuring smoked prosciutto, honey and walnuts.
As co-owner and operations manager Luca D'Angelo explained, true bufala cheeses are hard to come by: “First of all, it’s expensive to produce [because] there is a shortage of milk.” Plus, he said, it is difficult to find cheeses of uniform quality in the desirable larger-sized pieces. “Four pounds is ideal,” he informed. Then, there is only one place to really get the stuff and it is within a 50-kilometer area near Naples.
No, it isn’t easy being “cheesy,” especially if you regularly await shipments from Europe, but for FLB, it’s the only way to be.
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