 By Cassandra Mas, QMG’s Lead Development Chef
So you think you want to be a cook? This is one of the many teasers Anthony Bourdain uses to begin his chapters in his memoir, Kitchen Confidential.
Bourdain, a self professed “sensualist,” “bad boy,” “renegade,” “pirate” and “near criminal,” weaves a compelling, although, seemingly unbelievable tale (to those outside the business) of his kitchen exploits, training and rise through the industry. The book is edgy, and a little naughty at times, but overall Bourdain is interesting, honest and truly in the know.
Bourdain prefaces his tale with some rather witty disclaimers of his objectives in writing this novel.
He claims, and I believe him, that his intention is not to reveal the secret inner workings of an industry which he refers to as the “beast” for shock value. Nor is it to seek retribution against any former employers (although he questions his career longevity following the release of the book).
His purpose – which is fortified by the sumptuous language and thoughtful, almost poetic, storytelling – is to expose the nature of a truly committed professional chef and his love affair with food.
Bourdain clearly is a chef’s chef. He’s the real deal; the man has moves. It’s clear in his writing that his life as a cook and chef consumes his thinking in every way.
His narrative is rich, layered and deep like food that’s been properly prepared – seasoned at every layer. His “chefness” is so engrained it is impossible for him to speak anything but “kitchenese”.
The constant barrage of cooking terminology, kitchen-French and kitchen-Spanish must be overwhelming for the non-professional reader. For those of us that have actually worked in the business, we are all too comfortable with the sweet familiarity of this soothing patois (By the way, this is Anthony’s word “patois” – the guy is not just a grunt, no matter how much he would protest).
Listening to Bourdain’s stories was eerily calming. Despite having entered the business in different decades, the fact that I could identify with so many of his experiences was really enthralling.
The militaristic nature of the “beast,” the insults, the addicts, the drunks and the debauchery are all things that any professional has indeed witnessed. Bourdain talks about the nicknames: his was “Flaco” (skinny) mine was “Bruja” (yes that means witch) – I felt the connection.
Bourdain begins his memoir with a luscious barrage of vivid early childhood food memories. He talks of his first oyster and compares it to his first sexual experience – the oyster won hands down.
He talks a lot about sex and food, food and sex and sexy food. This of course is a common theme throughout the novel as he honestly discusses a major motivation for entering the business was “to get laid.”
He of course follows that with a description of his light bulb moment. The experience which prompted him to stop being a heroin-addicted, destructive, belligerent little hack shoemaker just cooking for the dough and booze and committed himself to a life of cooking with integrity and purpose.
Bourdain not only covers the ups and down of his career but offers a lot of sound professional advise. His description of people not to work for (i.e. the dentist-turned-operator because his friends said he really knew how to throw a great party).
He makes no bones about his disdain for the “Ewok- like Emeril” and other similar types. He feels strongly about treating his kitchen cronies and the Latino “mafia” of line cooks, bus boys and prep cooks with respect and dignity. He also likes women who can hold there own with the trash-talking BS in the kitchen. I like this guy!
Bourdain concludes his narrative with a list of do’s and do not’s, each of them honest and informed. Never call out sick, don’t pilfer, don’t work for the dentist, always have character and cook with integrity!
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