California wines have a storied and rich history that most consumers are unaware of. An understanding of California wines’ journey to greatness can be used to guide and inspire the creation of an unmatched California wine list category.
Origins of California Wine
The first grape vines were planted in California’s soil in the late 1700’s by Mexican missionaries. This first grape vine was an early Mexican variety that became known as the Mission grape. This was the most prominent grape variety in California until 1880.
There is some dispute over which individual was responsible for planting the first vines.
Fransiscan missionary Father Junipero Serra is said to have planted eight vineyards in California in 1769, with the first at the Mission San Diego de Alcala. He is commonly referred to as the “Father of California Wine.”
Others say that Don Jose Camacho brought the first grape vines to California on the ship San Antonio. The vines that he brought were planted in 1782 at the San Juan Capistrano by Fathers Pablo de Mugartegui and Gregorio Amurrio.
Early Years in California Winemaking
Jean-Louis Vignes is credited with planting the first European wine grapes in Los Angeles in 1833. Originally from Bordeaux, France and trained in enology in Paris, he established the first commercial winery in California and was also the first to export wine.
In the 1850’s and 1860’s, a bold and creative Hungarian soldier, merchant and political exile named Agoston Haraszthy settled in Wisconsin. After owning various businesses across the United States, he moved to California and began planting grape vines. He went on to collaborate with the American government and import over 165 cuttings from some of the best European vineyards to California.
Haraszthy also dug caves for cellaring at his own personal financial expense, promoted hillside planting, suggested the use of redwood for barrels when oak was not available and founded Buena Vista Winery in an area of Sonoma called Valley of the Moon.
With Haraszthy’s help, Prussian immigrant Charles Krug was able to establish Napa Valley’s first commercial winery in 1861.
The Phylloxera Epidemic
In 1863, tragedy struck the European wine industry when an outbreak of Phylloxera destroyed nearly all the vineyards in Europe. Phylloxera is a root louse indigenous to North America that destroys vines by feeding on the roots and leaves.
The insect was introduced to Europe by an infected species of North American grapes that were taken to the Botanical Gardens in England. The North American vines had developed a resistance to the indigenous louse, and were not affected by it. However, the European vines had not developed an evolutionary protective response to the foreign Phylloxera and by 1865 it had spread to vineyards in Provence.
Over the next 20 years, Phylloxera destroyed almost all the vineyards in Europe. The Phylloxera epidemic ended when Thomas Munson, a horticulturist in Texas suggested grafting the European Vitis Vinifera vines onto American Vitis Riparia rootstock.
California’s Wine Industry Grows
Europe’s loss was America’s gain. After the Phylloxera epidemic, Europe’s wine industry went into a decline. Meanwhile, the American wine industry began to boom.
In 1879, Captain Gustave Niebaum established Inglenook Winery in Rutherford, California and became the first winery to produce Bordeaux-style wines, which won gold medals at the World’s Fair of 1889 in Paris.
Large quantities of American wine began to be exported around the world to locations including Australia, Central America, England, Germany and Asia. By 1918, there were more than 2,500 commercial wineries in the United States and 713 bonded wineries.
The Prohibition Era
California’s wine industry was temporarily corked during the Wartime Prohibition Act in 1919. The Volstead National Prohibition Act and the 18th Amendment to the U.S. Constitution soon followed in 1920. These Acts prohibited the “manufacture, sale or transport of intoxicating liquors.”
A few wineries were able to survive by obtaining permits to make wines used for sacramental or medicinal purposes or to make non-beverage products such as vinegar. Other vineyards were able to survive by a loop-hole in the law that allowed private homes to make 200 gallons of grape juice from native vines for personal consumption. As a result, many citizens made wines from the Zinfandel grape.
Prohibition was repealed on December 5, 1933, but by that time the damage had been done. Under prohibition’s reign, U.S. wine production had dropped by 94 percent. After prohibition’s repeal the quality of wine was very poor, and numerous books and articles were published speaking to American’s about the proper way to serve, consume and pair wine.
Even though it was now legal, consumers were generally turned off by wine since the general public still did not view alcohol consumption as socially acceptable. As a result, most American’s shied away from wine consumption completely.
California Wine Matures
The University of California at Davis and Fresno State University helped turn the American public’s favor back to wine consumption by designing new techniques for vineyard management, including selecting grapes based upon which microclimate they would grow best in.
In 1938, Georges de Latour, founder of Beaulieu Vineyards, hired winemaker Andre Tchelistcheff. Tchelistcheff revolutionized American winemaking by introducing small French Oak barrel aging, cold fermentation, vineyard frost prevention and malolactic fermentation.
In the 1950’s and 1960’s, California wines were very tannic and almost black in color. During that time period, Frank Schoonmaker began promoting the idea of labeling wines using the varietal name rather than mimicking the European tradition of labeling by region. Up until then, California wine had borrowed its names from famous regions such as Burgundy and Chablis.
Robert Mondavi was one of the first to begin labeling his wines by varietal. In 1965, Robert Mondavi left his family’s Charles Krug estate and founded his own winery in Oakville, California. After that, winery numbers began to grow again in California, especially around Napa Valley.
In the 1960’s and 1970’s, California wines began winning European wine contests and blind tastings worldwide. The 60’s and 70’s brought the uprising of Chardonnay and saw wineries improve their technology as new oak barrels produced softer and more inviting tannins.
Today, the California wine industry is more popular than ever. Many Americans remain unaware of California wines’ path to greatness. Restaurateurs with an appreciation for this history should let their wine lists reflect the multitude of innovative and persistent winemakers who continually strive for the future.
Quantified Marketing Group can help restaurant and bar owners or managers create an effective mix of California wines. By evaluating blends, vintage conditions, winemaking techniques and grape sources, the beverage development team can aid in the selection of recognized brand name wines and smaller production, boutique-style gems. Please contact Quantified Marketing Group for more information.
|
|
|
